I think of Falmouth as an ellipse, with two foci: Customs House Quay, just below the Captain’s House, and The Moor, at the other end of the sinuous concatenation of Arwenack, Church, and Market Streets that give the town its primary retail thread.
With so much to see and do in Falmouth it is easy to get stuck at ‘our end’ of town and miss out on The Moor. Once a marshy tract of land with a stream flowing into Smithick Creek, where the Prince of Wales Pier now stands, it was drained in the early 19th century. It is now a cultural, retail, and transport hub, with many interesting independent shops. There is also a very useful Tesco!
Important buildings include the Passmore-Edwards municipal building containing the library and award-winning Falmouth Art Gallery, and the grand edifice that was once the Methodist church, bounded on one side by Jacob’s Ladder steps. At seventy years of age, I am proud to say that in dry weather I can still walk up all 111 steps, non-stop, with shopping! Beware though in heavy rain as they can become a cataract.
The Moor is a great place to socialise in the pubs, wine bars, and restaurants, but don’t miss the nearby High Street, that joins the end of Market Street, where many interesting shops keep a low profile – there is even a Museum of Magic and Folklore.
My top tip for any stay in Falmouth is to visit The Moor, and not to go to the same pub, restaurant, or wine bar twice, because they say, ‘variety is the spice of life’ and The Moor, much like the rest of Falmouth, is full of it.
More Moor please!
